2/18/2024 0 Comments Sow bugs eating carrot seedlings![]() This commercially grown carrot has fast-growing foliage and a higher sugar content than other types, and it’s often found in grocery stores. Japanese Imperial Long: As its name implies, this Imperator variety from Japan is long, reaching up to 2 feet in length.Napoli: One of the fastest-growing varieties, Napoli carrots mature sooner than others, producing 7- to 8-inch cylindrical roots with near-red flesh typical of the Nantes type that is both sweet and crunchy.Yellowstone: A Danvers variety known for its 6- to 8-inch long yellow roots, Yellowstone carrots are ready to harvest early and produce vigorous tops that compete with weeds.There are many varieties of carrots, categorized into several types. For even sweeter flesh, leave carrots in the ground in fall they can survive frost, but dig them up before the ground freezes in winter. Not one of the fastest-growing vegetables, carrots aren’t ready to harvest for 50 to 90 days, depending on the variety being grown. The familiar orange variety dates back to 17th century Dutch cultivation.īest sown in spring, carrot seeds can take 10 to 21 days to germinate. In the 10th century, they were domesticated in Asia, where they became a diet staple. Native to Iran and Afghanistan, the carrot is a cousin to the turnip and parsnip. Usually orange but capable of a range of colors, it’s a healthy and crunchy food choice. Its delicate fern-like foliage produces five-petaled flowers, but it’s the root-from 1 inch to 12 inches long-that earns the Daucus carota its name. The carrot plant is a biennial root vegetable that is usually harvested its first year. Safety: Non-toxic, but prolonged overconsumption can discolor skin Carrot Characteristics Soil: Loose, well-draining, rich soil pH 6.0 to 6.8įood: Vegetable fertilizer 2 weeks after tops emerge don’t over-fertilize RELATED: 12 Perennial Vegetables to Plant for Years of Fresh Produce Growing Carrots at a Glance However, as long as you have loose, rich soil and warm temperatures-and can wait several weeks before harvesting-you can learn how to grow carrots and reap the tasty benefits. (Other vegetables susceptible to infection include green beans, lettuce and tomatoes.) Remove and destroy infected crop residue. Plant on ridges to improve drainage and enable the soil surface to dry more rapidly.Growing your own carrots is rewarding, as it’s considered one of the more difficult veggies to grow. The disease can develop in harvested carrots packed for the market.įor disease control, practice a three-year rotation with non-susceptible crops. The shoulders of the roots may also become infected and plant tissue becomes soft and watery. Cool, wet conditions favour the disease.Ī white cottony growth develops on parts of the plant above the ground. Plant disease-free seed. White mould (Sclerotinia sclerotiorum): More common in lush, dense plantings and will often start where plants have been trampled or otherwise injured. Signs include irregular brown spots on the leaves, brown strips on the petioles and long brown horizontal lesions on the roots. Symptoms are easily confused with Alternaria, but this disease is less common. Also, implement a strict crop rotation programme.Bacterial blight (Xanthomonas carotae): Likes warm, wet weather. In areas where blight is a problem, avoid planting in lands where foliage won’t dry quickly after rain or dew, or don’t plant at times of the year when the disease is more prevalent. To control leaf blight, plant tolerant cultivars or seed certified disease-free. The fungus can be transmitted with the seed, and may cause damping-off of seedlings. At first, the spots appear mainly on the leaf edges, where they merge, giving the leaves a scorched look. ![]() Dark brown to black spots, some with a yellow edge, appear on the leaves. Crop rotation and frequent working of the soil should reduce these problems.Īlternaria leaf blight (Alternaria dauci): This common disease of carrots in KwaZulu-Natal occurs mainly during wet weather in summer, with prolonged heavy dews promoting severe outbreaks in some areas. Harvest earlier when damage occurs late in growth. Various soil fumigants may be used before planting to control nematodes. Other pests: False wireworms, cutworms and millipedes sometimes damage the roots. Summer’s higher soil temperature favours development of the pest. ![]() Symptoms include thickened taproots and lateral roots, and split and forked roots. Nematodes: Root-knot nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.) can cause serious losses. No chemicals have been registered for the control of common pests and diseases in carrots.
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